IllustrationThree types of watch pins lined up on black background
Slotted, straight and knurled pins compared in close-up

The pin is the part most often confused with the spring bar: no spring, no double groove — just a plain metal rod that holds steel-bracelet links together or secures certain slotted-pin spring bars (Omega, Breitling, Tag Heuer).

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The 3 families of pins

IllustrationMacro side-by-side view of a slotted, straight and knurled pin
The three families of pins used in watchmaking
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TypeDescriptionMain useTypical Ø
Straight pinSolid cylindrical rod, lightly chamfered at both endsH-link steel bracelets, mid-range Japanese watches0,80 - 1,20 mm
Slotted pinHollow spring-steel rod slit along its full length (cylindrical C-clip)Omega, Breitling, Tag Heuer, some Tudor models1,00 - 1,50 mm
Knurled pinRod with helical surface knurling, friction fitHigh-end steel bracelets, Rolex Oysterlock0,90 - 1,20 mm
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Our pin category covers all three families. For compatible pin punches, see our technical guide.

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Steels used and practical consequences

IllustrationPolished pin samples showing steel grain
Differences in treatment and steel grades
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Three steel grades dominate the watch-pin market:

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GradeCompositionElasticityMain use
AISI 304L18 % Cr, 10 % Ni, C ≤ 0,03 %Low — creeps under repeated extractionEntry-level pins
AISI 316L17 % Cr, 12 % Ni, 2,5 % MoMedium — good marine corrosion resistanceDive bracelets, mid-range pivots
1.4310 (X10CrNi18-8)Hardened austenitic spring steelHigh — yield strength > 1700 MPaOmega and Breitling slotted pins
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⚙️ A slotted pin in 1.4310 hardened keeps its elasticity after more than 200 cycles of insertion/extraction with no permanent deformation — versus 15 to 20 cycles for a 304L copy.

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Measured extraction forces

IllustrationTest bench measuring a pin's extraction force
Extraction force measured in newtons
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Mecmesin AFG 50 N dynamometer test bench, sample n=10 per family:

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  • Straight pin, 304L steel 304L Ø 1,00 mm : extraction at 8 - 12 N (the force of a single fingertip press).
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  • Knurled pin, 316L steel 316L Ø 1,00 mm : extraction at 22 - 28 N (a pin punch is genuinely needed).
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  • Slotted pin 1.4310 Ø 1,30 mm : extraction at 14 - 18 N with re-insertion retaining 95 % of the initial force.
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« A knurled pin that comes out at 5 N isn't a ‘bargain’: it's a bracelet at the end of its life. The knurling is worn, crevice corrosion has set in. »
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Choosing by brand and use

IllustrationClose-up of a steel bracelet with a pin being inserted
Choosing the right pin for the brand and use
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  • Seiko / Citizen bracelets : straight pin Ø 1.00 × 12 mm in 316L — see our steel slotted pins.
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  • Omega / Breitling / Tag Heuer : slotted pin 1.4310 mandatory; never substitute a straight pin (the spring bar comes loose).
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  • Pre-2007 Rolex Oyster : knurled pin + collar; replace only with original or certified-compatible parts.
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FAQ

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Can a slotted pin be replaced by a straight one of the same diameter?

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No. The slotted pin holds itself by radial expansion inside the hole. A straight pin of the same nominal Ø will have 0.02 to 0.05 mm of play and will fall out within months.

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How can you tell a knurled pin from a straight one by eye?

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Striations visible under a 5× loupe, slightly diagonal. By touch, a knurled pin « catches » under the fingernail; a straight one slips.

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What standard pin length should I buy?

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For men's steel bracelets, Ø 1.00 × 12 mm covers 70 % of cases. For women's, Ø 0.90 × 9 mm. Measure the link width before buying: the pin is always the link width minus 0.1 mm.

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Is a titanium pin stronger?

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No, at equal diameter. Gr2 titanium has a yield strength of ~280 MPa versus >1700 MPa for hardened 1.4310. Titanium only makes sense for weight or nickel allergies.

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Guide written on 23 May 2026 — in-house dynamometer testing, Mecmesin AFG 50N.